Category: Bridal

November 28, 2012

Is Diamond Clarity Important?

I find that people either underestimate or over-estimate the importance of diamond clarity. This is a travesty that I intend to rectify. First, lets start with the basics:

Flawless- No inclusions inside or on the surface with 10x magnification. This is the definition of perfection.

Internally Flawless- No internal inclusions at 10x but there might be blemishes on the surface of the diamond.

VVS1/VVS2 Diamonds: Very Very Slightly Included. These have minuscule inclusions that are very difficult to spot under a 10x magnification. The inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.

VS1/VS2 Diamonds: Very Slightly Included. The inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, and are difficult to see under 10x magnification.

SI1/SI2 Diamonds: Slightly Included. The inclusions in these diamonds are usually not visible to the unaided eye, but are visible under a 10x magnification.

I1/I2 Diamonds: Included. These diamonds have visible inclusions to the unaided eye.

I generally don’t use stones that are more included than VS2 for my clients. Similarly, the high-end jewelry retailers like Harry Winston, Cartier, Van Cleef, Tiffany’s etc. don’t use SI or I clarities either. However, in order to reach the desired price points, commercial retailers like Blue Nile, Zales, etc. use a great deal of SI, I1, I2 and even I3 stones to make diamonds more accessible. Similarly, many of the fashion jewelry houses that use diamond slices or “brown diamonds” are using I3 goods. My stance on all this is that you have to know when to buy investment jewelry (VS2 or higher clarity) and when you’re buying fashion jewelry (which will never appreciate in value but it looks good). There is nothing wrong with dabbling in the entire spectrum but I would much rather my DMD darlings make informed decisions.

I an mot going to sit here and wax poetic about what clarity of diamonds you should have. One’s budget will always dictate the diamonds. If that means you have to sacrifice clarity in order to have a diamond engagement ring then so be it–no shame in that. However, if you have a larger budget but purchase SI or I goods because you like the design of the piece and don’t know any better, shame on you. Always get the best quality for your budget.

Size vs. Clarity

Different standards apply for different size stones and budgets. In a larger diamond, you should first scan the market to see what approximate size diamond you can get with your budget and then adjust clarity and color upwards or downwards. Let’s say your budget is $50,000. On today’s market, that could get you either a 1.25 carat D flawless round diamond or a 2 carat F, VS1 diamond. At that point, I would go for the 2 carat F because F and D colors are both in the colorless spectrum (click here to read my post on the diamond color scale); and given that VS1 inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, I would much rather a larger colorless diamond than a smaller flawless one when no one will be able to tell the difference anyway.

Alternatively, let’s say Kanye gives Kim a budget of 3 million to spend on her next engagement ring (this is starting to sound like one of my old law school hypotheticals). Rather than go for a 20 carat, G colored, VS2 like she did last time, I would advise her to go for a 8 or 9 carat D flawless. Why anyone would get a 20 carat mediocre stone over a D flawless that is half the size is beyond me–8 carats is worthy of jewelry arthritis as it is, and it is both more stunning visually and a better investment. Clearly the emphasis is on the flash appeal rather than on the quality or investment value. I would never advise someone in that direction–it’s just reckless disregard for logic and good fiscal planning.

Color vs. Clarity

Sizes being equal, what if I was posed with the choice of a 2 carat F VVS1 or a 2 carat E VS2? The second option being one step up in color but two steps down in clarity. Ahh, here I would go for color because color is more visible than clarity to the naked eye. The only instance where I would choose to upgrade clarity over color is if there is a large disparity between the two. Let’s say I have a 2 carat F color SI2; if given the choice to upgrade to an E, SI2 (one step up in color) or an F, VS2 (two steps up in clarity), I would choose the F, VS2 because SI inclusions can be visible to the naked eye whereas VS inclusions are not and that makes it a better investment.

Melees

We’ve done the behemoths, now for the melees. Mellees are what we in the industry call diamonds that we use for accents or pave settings. For example, on an engagement ring with a diamond band, the diamonds on the band are called melees. If you have a center stone, the melee should always match the center stone, that’s basic quality control. What if you don’t have a center stone and have a ring paved in melee? Is it worth it to splurge and get D flawless melee? Absolutely not. If you go for a high color, G or higher, no one is going to see the clarity difference between a VS2 and a VVS melee–you’d be wasting your money.

I am a big proponent of living within your means. The more included a diamond is the more affordable it is. Having said that, given one’s means, one should always strive for the best. That my darlings, is why one needs to be well-informed and the reason I pen this blog.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

November 21, 2012

How Much to Spend on an Engagement Ring?

Prepare yourselves for a tirade. Most of us have heard that the man should spend 3 months salary on an engagement ring–thank you DeBeers for that huge pile of hogwash. I totally disagree. In the current economy, how many men of marrying age do you know with 3 months salary saved up for a rainy day fund let alone an engagement ring? So then how to determine how much to spend on an engagement ring? I think a gentleman should spend what he can reasonably afford to match the expectations of his girlfriend. Reason should trump expectations. In more concrete terms, a man should spend up to the equivalent of 40% of his savings. That does not mean actually spend your rainy day fund mind you, it simply means a reasonable amount to pay for an engagement ring can be up to 40% of the amount of your savings. In some cases this will be less than 3 months salary and in some cases it will be more but it’s a more rational way of thinking about it.

Jean & Alex, emerald-cut engagement ring set in platinum. Available by special order.

If a guy doesn’t have any savings, expecting him to spend 3 months salary on an engagement ring is preposterous and bad financial planning. Remember that the two of you are getting married so his financial woes become yours. Your priority should be building a healthy habits and a strong future for the two of you. OK, enough doom and gloom. The fact is, proper fiscal planning now means a brighter happily ever after. So maybe you compromise on the flash now–who’s to say you can’t upgrade your ring in the future when doing so is more appropriate to your circumstances? My father always told me that jewelry should be appropriate to your age, experience and circumstances. If you haven’t earned it in experience or age it winds up looking terribly gauche.

So take heart in the fact that your boyfriend loves you and you’re building a wonderful future together. He loves you enough to marry you, trust that he also will do everything in his power to make you happy. If that means getting your dream engagement ring, he will do his best using all the means available to him at present. You should also have him read my post about priorities when selecting and engagement ring to ensure you get the biggest and best diamond for his budget. Here’s to happily ever after.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

November 9, 2012

Diamond Color Scale

It seems like everyone is coveting and talking about fancy yellow and pink diamonds these days but I am always appalled at how few people know about the color scale of white diamonds. This is a basic building block of jewelry connoisseurship my darlings that one cannot overlook. White diamonds fall in a D to Z color range with D being the most colorless and Z having the most color–Z diamonds are obviously yellow or grey to the naked eye but keep in mind that such diamonds are not considered fancy colors. Fancy colored diamonds are those that have more color than Z and have their own color scale.

D color is the most coveted because it is the purest and most crisp diamond color. Diamonds in the D-J color range look white from their face-up position. One can detect yellow in the G-J color range only face down (with the pointed end, called the culet, facing up) looking through the pavilion (looking at a perpendicularly through the longest edge of the diamond). K, L and M diamonds are yellow or grey face up and face down; any diamond color below M is unmistakably not white.

For the engagement ring buyer, it is always wise to go for the highest color that your budget allows for without sacrificing the size you have your heart set on. So many of the celebrity engagement rings, the 20 carat whoppers, are H-J colored and it always makes me wonder why they didn’t just go for a stunning 5 carat D flawless? There is nothing wrong with H-J colored diamonds mind you, but if it’s within your budget, who in their right mind would want 20 mediocre carats when you can have 5 pristine carats of diamond for the same price? Warped priorities make for bad investments.

For those who are looking to simulate the look of a yellow diamond on a restricted budget, look for an X, Y or Z color but make sure the clarity is VS1 or better. It’s a sneaky little loop-hole. You are buying a diamond that looks yellow to the naked eye and if you have an excellent jeweler, he or she can make it look more yellow with a clever setting thus giving you the look of a fancy colored diamond for considerably less. Keep in mind though that an X, Y or Z color is not a fancy colored diamond so while it may look marvelous after it’s set, it is not going to retain value as well as an actual fancy colored diamond. Why VS1 clarity or better? Because a diamond in the lower color ranges that also has poor clarity is just a shoddy diamond. If you are going to sacrifice color for an intended effect, you have to make up the difference in clarity and symmetry in order to retain some aspects of the diamond’s fire and brilliance, otherwise you’re just buying an unattractive diamond.

Jean & Alex, yellow diamond ring. Available by private order.

For a quick tutorial on diamond shapes, read “Diamond Shapes 101.” Have a question? Leave me a comment or contact me at blog@delivermediamonds.com.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

October 22, 2012

Engagement Trend Alert: Oval Engagement Rings

It seems not so long ago that women who were “in the know” would choose a cushion or Asscher cut diamond for their engagement ring. I suspect the winds are changing and will go out on a limb and state it for the record: oval engagement rings are the new ‘it’ ring. There are myriad reasons I love oval engagement rings but at the top of the list: they are equally flattering on large hands and small; and round stones over 2.5 carats look clumsy–so for women who like a round shape but want a larger stone an oval diamond is a very elegant alternative.

Photos from here.

My current favorite fair-haired couple, Ryan Reynolds and Blake Lively, were recently married, and leave it to the Gossip Girl star to get it exactly right. For their engagement, Ryan presented Blake with a stunning light pink oval diamond set in rose gold from Lorraine Schwartz that was later paired with a diamond and rose gold wedding band (both shown in the picture above). Sources estimate the oval diamond to be approximately 12 carats and worth 1.5 to 2 million dollars.

For more information and things to consider when choosing an oval diamond, read my post on oval engagement rings here. As always, if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment or send me a message.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

September 26, 2012

Diamond Shapes 101

Whether you’re choosing a diamond shape for an engagement ring, earrings or a just for fun ring, much more goes into it than mere aesthetics. To my horror, there are a host of issues that no one tells you. For example, some diamond shapes hold more weight than others–meaning, for the same carat weight, certain shapes will look smaller because the bulk of the weight is in the lower part of the diamond that is hidden by the setting. Similarly, certain shapes will reflect light better than others due to their shape and cut and as a result, certain shapes will be more brilliant than others or show more fire. Here is everything you need to know:

Basic Diamond Shapes

Round brilliant shaped diamonds are the industry standard–they have 57 or 58, mostly triangular, facets (depending on whether you count the culet as a facet). Round brilliants are the most scintillating because of the way that light reflects off the facets. Anything that is not a round brilliant shape is considered a fancy shape. Many people confuse shape and cut. In the industry, the term shape is used to denote the actual shape of the stone whereas the cut is a term used to describe how well the proportions, symmetry and polish of the stone are executed. In other words, shape is a personal choice whereas the cut speaks to the quality of the stone and is thus, non-negotiable.

Emerald shapes are step cuts, made up of a series of rectangular facets parallel to the girdle. In general, emerald shaped diamonds are not as brilliant and do not show as much fire (the flashes of color you see when you move a diamond under a light source) but they do highlight a diamond’s clarity, which could be positive or negative. If purchasing an emerald shaped diamond, it is better to select one with a high clarity grade as any inclusions will be more visible in a step-cut stone. Furthermore, with emerald cuts, it is important to have your jeweler make sure the proportions are ideal. There is a tendency in emerald cuts for the stone to be too thin or too thick either in the crown height or the pavilion depth. In the first instance, a stone that is thin will look larger face-on but in such situations you are sacrificing visual properties and durability. If the diamond is too thick, then you are hiding weight in the pavilion and the result is that you are paying for a stone that looks smaller than its carat weight would suggest.

Marquise, princess, pear, radiant, Asscher and cushions all fall into the category of fancy shapes. Some are considered modified brilliants and some mixed cuts (having a combination of brilliant and step cuts). In general, cushion shapes look smaller than their carat weight lets on because the stone has to be cut slightly thicker so there is more weight in the depth of the stone than you see on the surface.

For the most part, your jeweler should have very strict standards about what stone she uses and should have inspected and vetted all the diamonds before you see them. Obviously, when buying a stone we want to strive for perfection in cut (symmetry, proportions and polish). However, here is a little list of common concerns and what to prioritize with respect to each shape:

Rounds- Proportions need to be bang-on. The crown height vs. the pavilion depth should be such that you are maximizing the diamond’s fire, brilliance and scintillation. If you are buying a certified stone, the cut grade will tell you all this. Strive for very good to excellent cut grades (the scale: Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, Excellent).

Princess- Symmetry is key. Make sure all sides of the stone are parallel. From a face-on view, a princess cut has to look like a perfect square, if the sides are wonky and it looks more like a trapeze or rhomboid, walk away. Princess cuts have very defined points on the corners, have your jeweler make sure they are pristine. Sometimes the corners are chipped during setting and the chips are hidden by prongs.

Marquise- Symmetry is a big one here as well. You’ll want to make sure that if you draw a line down the diamond both left and right sides match and if you draw a line across the diamond, the top and bottom halves match (ex: you don’t want the top two sides to bulge more than the bottom two and vice versa or the left side to bulge more than the right). Keep an eye out for bowtie shadows. All marquise and pear-shaped diamonds will have shadows in the middle of the stone that resemble a bowtie. The better the cut of the stone, the smaller the bowtie shadow. If there is a distracting gray bowtie in the center of your stone walk away.

Pear Shape- It has to be pretty. With a pear shape symmetry matters but you have to decide whether you like a stone that looks like a chubbier drop or a thinner one. I prefer chubbier drops but it has to be within reason. Eye-appeal is crucial here, if the stone looks too heavy on the top or bottom it’s not cut well. Don’t forget to check for the bowtie shadow!

Emerald and Asscher- Symmetry, look for parallel lines, make sure the keel is even down the diamond in an emerald shape. There should be no glaring inclusions that you can see with the naked eye. Have your jeweler check to make sure none of the edges are chipped.

Radiant and Cushion- Proportions and symmetry should be stressed. Check to see that all sides are even and symmetrical, similar to the marquise, all 4 sides and 4 corners should have the same curve or bulge. If you imagine folding the diamond into 4ths, each corner should match. No wonky corners or sides. Proportions are a big consideration here as well, as explained earlier, we don’t want a bottom-heavy stone–that just means you’re paying for a stone with hidden weight that you can’t see once its set.

That little cheat sheet should get you through your diamond buying but if you have any questions email me or leave me a comment.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP