Category: Styling Tips & Trade Secrets

Alexis Bittar bracelet

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis Bittar

Anna Dello Russo, editor-at-large of Vogue Japan and street style celebrity, has made taking looks verbatim from the runway to real life her trademark.  Some call it daring as very few humans live in a world where they can lift an entire runway look and not get carted off to a loony bin, others call it lazy–where is the creativity in styling if one just copies what they see on the runway?  Jewelry designers often create a few distinct lines of jewelry for sale in retail platforms.  This begs the question: Should we wear matching pieces from the same line or branch out a bit?  I use Alexis Bittar as my case study here because he is a costume jewelry designer who comes up with many different lines that are quite dissimilar to each other in aesthetic.  He currently has a collection inspired by Georgia O’Keefe, an ‘elements’ line that draws from nature, a modernist line, a lucite line, even a Mauritius monkey line.

My personal inclination is to go against matchy-matchy jewelry.  To wear earrings, necklace and bracelet all from the same line feels very dated to me.  However, I see nothing wrong with wearing many pieces from different collections of the same designer.

What Not to Do

Please don’t put an entire look together with pieces from the same line (see below).  I don’t care how old or young your are, it sends the message that your look was inspired by moth balls.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis Bittar

 

Alexis Bittar, Ophelia earrings; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, Ophelia necklace; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis Bittar

Alexis Bittar, Ophelia brooch; available here.

What to do

Instead, I would pull one piece from the collection and use it as inspiration for a cohesive look that also brings in other elements.  If you like the Ophelia earrings from above, perhaps pair it as follows for a much more modern take on matching jewelry by echoing similar materials or colors.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, Ophelia earrings; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, liquid gold thin collar; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, ripped gold cuff; available here.

Alternatively, if earrings + necklace + cuff is not your thing, try just choosing one kind of jewelry like bangles for example, and layering them for an over the top look that doesn’t weigh you down.  I would wear the top two cuffs on the same arm and then the third cuff on the other arm for a little bit of asymmetry and interest.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, gold parrot cuff; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, baroque hinge bracelet; available here.

Jewelry Styling from the Same Designer: Alexis BittarAlexis Bittar, modernist gold dotted bracelet; available here.

In essence, anything that is too matchy-matchy looks terrible.  However, feel free to match different aspects of your jewelry whether it’s the color, material, inspiration, or style.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

jewelry organizer

Jewelry Organizer Extraordinaire

 

I cannot tell you how many friends ask me about how I store and organize my jewelry.  This is something that I have grappled with for years and am still in the process of perfecting.  Short of having a custom closet built with drawers for jewelry, there are not many ready-made options out there that can accommodate a large collection.  Three years ago, Ikea made a jewelry drawer that fit into their Pax units.  I bought one to test it out and to this day I regret not buying an entire wardrobe and fitting it out with only those drawers!  Had I had the foresight, my present conundrum would never have come to pass.  The drawers have since been discontinued and my search for perfect jewelry storage trudges on.

If you work in the jewelry industry, whether in costume or fine jewelry, you will know that there is one universal truth–jewelry industry insiders store their jewelry in plastic zip bags.  We have plastic zip bags of every size and think nothing of throwing a diamond ring or necklace into one and tossing it into our purse or pocket.  Atrocious, I know.  However, I like to think that I am evolved.  I have a different storage system for fine jewelry and costume jewelry but both require a damn good jewelry organizer.

I still have yet to find a jewelry box or roll that is practical and large enough for my fine jewelry needs.  All jewelry will scratch if jumbled together (diamonds will scratch anything) so make sure to keep jewelry well-spaced.  If you’re like me and have more jewelry than you have space, buy some plastic jewelry zip bags (hereJewelry Organizer Extraordinaire) and make sure that you store only one piece of jewelry per bag and then place them in your jewelry box.  The zip bags protect the jewelry from abrasion, tangles and all sorts of horrible fates and allows one to store more jewelry in a smaller space.  Needless to say, above a certain quantity, fine jewelry should be placed in a safe.  If you have a big enough safe, get some lined trays to organize your jewelry rather than keeping them in plastic bags–that would just be outright ghetto.

Bangles can be kept on a tiered bangle tree or in a box.  I find that it is far easier to find things on a bangle tree and since in NYC real estate doesn’t come cheap, we need to use as much vertical space as we can.

Jewelry Organizer Extraordinaire

Bangle tree, available here.

I generally keep earrings in stackable trays.  I am obsessed with the ones from the Container Store, the compartments are different sizes and shapes to accommodate all kinds of earrings.  They call them “ring stacking trays” but I use them for earrings.

Jewelry Organizer Extraordinaire

 

Jewelry organizer trays, available here.

Necklaces can be hung on hooks or kept on a tray.  I generally keep mine in stackable trays because I tend to like arthritis-inducing necklaces of immense proportions and too much time spent hanging frays the string and weakens links in chains.  Don’t bother with necklace trees–they will drive you insane.  It is impossible to take a necklace off without bringing the whole thing crashing down.  Even the daintiest touch will send your necklaces cascading and then good luck untangling them.  Oh the horror!  Stay away from necklace trees!  For fine chain necklaces, put them in a plastic zip bag and then in a tray; chunkier statement necklaces can be placed in a tray or on a shelf as is.

Jewelry Organizer ExtraordinaireMy jewelry closet from top to bottom: Stacking trays from Container Store, and felt lined drawer from Ikea that saved my life for about 2 seconds until I accumulated too much jewelry to fit into one measly little drawer.

Anyone who has figured out a better way to organize jewelry please do share.  I am forever looking for better ways to hoard store my jewelry.

Big Kiss and BIgger Diamonds,

JZP

 

cubic zirconia studs

Diamond Stud Earrings: How Big is Too Big?

 

When it comes to diamonds stud earrings, how big is too big?  With respect to certain things (like hair), methinks that bigger is always better.  One would assume the same applies for diamonds (or at least, one would think that I would think so when it comes to diamonds).  But in reality it all comes down to proportions.  Bigger diamonds are always better for investment purposes but I don’t think anyone wants a pair of 20 carat diamond studs lest you fancy having your ear lobe shredded to bits.  At some point, diamonds get too heavy to be worn in the ears as studs–when I say studs I mean the kind with a post, this does not apply to clip earrings which can be far more sizeable.  I know you’re thinking: this chic is insane; how many people do you think have the problem of diamonds that are too large for their earrings?  Well snarky, the same theory would apply to cubic zirconia studs so listen up.

So how do you know if diamond stud earrings are too large?  It depends on the size of your ear lobes (cue enlightenment music).  A diamond stud earring depends on the lobe upon which it rests for support.  Therefore, the larger and thicker the lobe, the larger the earring one can pull off.  I genuinely feel bad for women with flimsy ear lobes.  Nothing breaks my heart like a massive pair of 3 carat (each side) studs on a wimpy lobe–the diamond is so heavy for the lobe it’s practically facing the ground and no one can detect the spectacle that is 6 total carats of diamonds.  I am cursed blessed with ginormous ears and correspondingly large lobes.  A pair of 1 carat (each side) studs is practically undetectable amidst the infinite mounds of flesh that are my ears.  Seriously.  A pair of 4 carat (each side) diamond earrings look positively normal on my ears; not flashy, just normal.  Kind of like Godzilla making an airplane look like a toy.

Diamond Stud Earrings: How Big is Too Big? Headline: Godzilla Lobes Make Enormous 4 Carat (each side) Diamond Earrings Look Normal.

Diamond Stud Earrings: How Big is Too Big?

3 carat (each side) Cubic Zirconia studs on a normal person’s lobes; available here.Diamond Stud Earrings: How Big is Too Big?Witness another woman with massive ears: Charlize Theron in Harry Winston emerald-cut diamond studs (5 carats each side).

What does one do then if one wants to wear larger diamonds but has wimpy lobes?  Have bespoke ones made with a clip in the back.  Clips will support the weight of the diamonds in front and help them lie flat against your ear.

When applied to cubic zirconia studs, the rule remains the same–go as big as your lobes can support without the diamonds drooping.  A little bit of droop is ok but if it starts affecting the brilliance of your earrings then you need to pull back.  Also, keep in mind that CZs are heavier than diamonds so one would not be able to get away with as large a size in CZs as in a pair of diamond stud earrings.

If you are in the market for diamond stud earrings, get them made bespoke.  Here is why along with a buying guide.  If you’re looking for CZs, here are a few options:

Diamond Stud Earrings: How Big is Too Big?

 

Cubic zirconia studs: 1 carat available here, 4 carat available here, 6 carat available here.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

necklace backwards

Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace Backwards

 

Anne Hathaway and Jennifer Lawrence will have started a trend by wearing both their necklaces backwards at the 2013 Oscars–mark my words.  I have always loved a good necklace backwards, it swishes flirtatiously on the top 1/3 of one’s back and makes quite an impression with the boys.  I have a diamond drop necklace that I’ve been wearing like that for over 10 years and it never ceases to attract compliments.  However, one can’t just wear any old necklace backwards.  No. . .the right necklace must look just as good (if not better) backwards than it does forwards–that means no garish clasps or unfinished-looking necklace extenders in the front of one’s neck.  Here are a few that pass muster:

This particular faux pearl necklace is made to be worn backwards so it takes much of the guesswork out of the jewelry styling process.

Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace BackwardsMaison Martin Margiela, faux pearl back chain; available here.

Lariats are the perfect necklace to be worn backward because the clasps are in the front to begin with and very subtle.  As such, you can wear them in front, in back, as belts; the possibilities are endless.  I found two stunning lariats here if you are looking for more options.

Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace Backwards

Baublebar, gold button lariat; available here.Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace BackwardsBaublebar, purple tassel pendant; available here.

In general, I would suggest a necklace with no visible clasp to be worn backwards.  However, there are the odd instances when a necklace is simply begging to be worn backwards yet once you do so, it leaves something wanting in the front.  There is an easy fix for such things, just wear another necklace on top of it!  Yes, you might get jewelry-induced neck arthritis but wouldn’t it be worth it?  I would wear the charm necklace below backwards and the crystal necklace below that normally (i.e. facing front).  That way you are perfectly adorned in the front and a balls-to-the-wall party in the back.  Note: keep your outfit s-i-m-p-l-e!

Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace BackwardsSea of Love necklace; available here.

Jewelry Styling Tips: Best Necklace Backwards

Kenneth Jay Lane, gunmetal-plated crystal necklace; available here.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

 

work appropriate jewelry

Work Appropriate Jewelry: The New Rules of Power Dressing

 

 

I recently watched Missrepresentation, a documentary about the bias against women in the media.  The underlying message is that the media continuously objectifies women by portraying them as either sex kitten or nagging bitch and this has resulted in American women having warped self-images and grossly underestimating their influence in the world.  The movie also points out the fact that powerful women are constantly judged on their appearance or personal life rather than for their accomplishments–if Hilary Clinton had a bad day, the media calls her old and haggard; if she looks good on another day, there is speculation about whether she’s had work done–this has to change and we, as viewers, can start by refusing to fan the flames of lazy journalism.  There are a few points in the documentary that I don’t necessarily agree with but overall I think the representation of women in the media is a good issue to raise and I support the movement as a whole.  It is important to distinguish between the media’s tendency to undermine a woman’s influence versus the reality of how much power women actually command.

One of the points that I take issue with is the movie’s subtle suggestion that if you care about your looks then you’re perpetuating stereotypes.  I believe that a woman should be entitled to be accomplished, intelligent, independent, and care about her appearance without being judged.  It is no secret that attractive people (men and women) do better in life; its consistently been true since before the existence of media–we are genetically programmed to respond better to attractive people.  That is not bias, it’s science.  That doesn’t mean I believe that a person with homely looks should undergo plastic surgery to drastically alter their appearance to look like a Barbie; however, I do think that one should always present their best self to the world.  That means working out so you’re healthy, eating well, caring for your skin, putting thought into the message you are sending with your outfit and accessory choices, minding your manners, and trying to get the most out of your life.  Anna Wintour is a great example of a woman who is not a natural beauty but puts her best foot forward.  This woman controls millions of dollars worth of advertising dollars and the Guardian has called her the “unofficial mayoress” of New York City.  She is portrayed in movies, cartoons, etc. as a steely bitch because the amount of clout she has is threatening to some.  Given the lame state of the media as it currently stands, if you are powerful enough to threaten plebeians, you’ve made it.  Who cares about the idiots shaking in their boots drawing unflattering cartoons of you?  You could destroy them with one glance.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

 

Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue.  Photo from here.

I also don’t believe that a woman has to downplay her looks in order to be taken seriously in her profession but we do have to be careful not to be overly sexual in our attire so as not to objectify ourselves.  Think about the impression you put forth.  Women in politics, corporate America and academia tend to gravitate towards the stern, androgynous, buttoned-up look because they believe that is what has to be done to command the respect of their male peers.  I think we have more leeway than that.  We aren’t limited to porn star or puritan, there is ample room in between for us to reflect our own aesthetic in our manner of dress without objectifying ourselves.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power DressingLynn de Rothschild, CEO of E.L. Rothschild

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Martine Assouline, co-founder and owner of Assouline publishing house.  Photo from here.

Propriety depends largely on one’s field.  Women in creative industries can get away with a lot more than women in government for example.  The key is knowing where the line is drawn.  Ivanka Trump does this exceedingly well.  She wears many hats: executive, clothing and jewelry designer, and reality TV star; yet, she always looks appropriate for the situation.  In meetings and on The Apprentice, she will wear a demure dress or shift, one that doesn’t show too much cleavage or leg.  For editorials, she dresses according to the demographic of the readership and her message, and for red carpet events the dresses are more risqué and revealing.  Does she play up the sex kitten vibe to court media attention?  Absolutely.  But she decides what her image is to be for any given situation and uses it in her favor.  The power to control the world’s perception of you is a skill that should not be taken lightly.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power DressingIvanka Trump, Executive VP of Development & Acquisitions at The Trump Organization, designer, reality TV star.  Photo from here.

Jewelry happens to be the perfect way to add a personal touch to an otherwise demure work appropriate outfit.  One can wear big jewelry without objectifying oneself and relinquishing respect.  However, when it comes to power dressing in the corporate world, here are some guidelines for jewelry:

1. No huge rhinestones, crystals or diamonds during the day–a pair of diamond studs are fine, enormous blinding statement earrings are best reserved for evening.  Same goes for necklaces, small sparkly accents may be appropriate but high shine is not.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Work appropriate jewelry: wood earrings; available here.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Work appropriate jewelry: Kenneth Jay Lane earrings; available here.Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Work-appropriate jewelry: Swarovski stud earrings; available here.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Save these for happy hour.  Faux Emerald earrings; available here.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Work appropriate jewelry: pearl statement necklace; available here.

2. Your jewelry should be seen, not heard–your bangles should not announce your arrival in a board room.  I don’t want to hear clanking of any kind, especially not against the desk as you type.  People will not take you seriously as a professional. Reserve stacking bangles for your personal life.  Cuffs are fine as long as they don’t make noise.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power DressingWork appropriate jewelry: Gold hinge cuff; available here.

3.  Save the skulls and spikes for when you’re off the clock–unless you’re in a creative industry, skulls and spikes won’t go over well in the office.

Work Appropriate Jewelry:  The New Rules of Power Dressing

Not work appropriate, save it for cocktail hour; available here.

4.  If you don’t know whether your office setting is conducive to any of the above, ask yourself, “Are jeans allowed in the workplace?”  If jeans are allowed, then you’re fine and you can take more risks in your jewelry.  If jeans are not allowed in your office, then make smart choices about jewelry.

To support the Missrepresentation movement, click here.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP