Category: Costume Jewelry: Vintage

rosantica green jade necklace

Jade-ed

 

My family was persecuted many years ago during the Cultural Revolution in China.  All of our artwork, property, jewelry, and other worldly possessions were confiscated by the Communist regime.  In the beginning of the revolution before things turned brutal, my grandfather was told by the Communists that all of the family’s possessions would be kept in the bank for “safe keeping” and returned to him after the revolution.  He was encouraged to visit the safe and continue to stash valuable items there.  My paternal grandfather, a savvy man-of-the-world with nerves of steel, suspected otherwise.  He convinced my grandmother to accompany him to the bank to survey their possessions–a trip he usually took alone.  He told her to wear her jade necklace, a strand of large perfectly round beads made of a flawless jade so green they pierced the eyes.  He said even though there was a revolution afoot, one must still keep up standards.  At the bank, he told her he had a change of heart, “Take your necklace off, I will put it in safety deposit.  We will get it back after the revolution as they promise.”  My grandmother did as she was told.  To her surprise, he returned with a box that contained an identical necklace.  He had a glass replica made for her so she could still have something to wear while the real jade necklace was in safe keeping.  My grandmother was not a fussy woman, she put on the glass necklace and that was that.

As the revolution turned into a slaughter, my family lost everything; children were made to betray their parents, women were tortured, youth were sent to work camps in the countryside, and that safe in the bank turned into property of the Communist Regime.  My grandparents eventually emigrated to the United States and the travesties that occurred during the revolution became fuzzy-edged tales of a distant past.  As a child, I remember my grandfather putting a jade necklace up for auction at Sotheby’s in the early 80′s but didn’t learn the story until much later.  As it turns out, grandpa knew all along that the best way to hide a treasure is in plain sight.  While the glass replica of my grandmother’s jade necklace sat in the safe amongst all our family’s other treasures, my grandmother dragged her pristine jade necklace through the Cultural Revolution to America all the while thinking it was a worthless string of colored glass.

Jade ed

 

Jean & Alex jade ring with diamonds and pink sapphire set in 20k yellow gold, black gold and platinum.  Designed by my father for my mother.

I always thought of jade as the signature bangles worn by old ladies in Chinatown and was never particularly drawn to it until I saw a jade ring that my father designed for my mother.  These days, high quality jade can fetch millions of dollars but lower quality jade is still quite affordable.  Jade comes in all different colors, green, purple, pink, white, black and yellow.  If you encounter a vividly colored piece of jade jewelry that is quite affordable, it is most likely color-treated or faux (i.e.glass).  There is nothing wrong with purchasing color-treated jade but as with everything, one should buy it knowingly.  Here is a tribute to all things jade, real, faux and everything in between.

Jade ed

 

Rosantica, jade and agate necklace, available here.

Jade edElisabeth Cole costume earrings, available here.

Jade ed

Napier, faux jade elephant and filigree earrings, available here.

Jade ed

White topaz, 18k yellow gold and black jade ring, available here.

Jade ed

Valentino Rockstud sandals, available here.

Jade edID Sarrieri, jade blossom triangle bra, available here.

Jade edID Sarrieri, jade blossom bikini, available here.

Jade edYSL, La Laque Couture, nail polish, available here.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

 

The last time I experimented with ear cuffs was most likely sometime in the mid-90′s right about when I was dying my hair blue-black, wearing oversized plaid flannel shirts and forest green Doc Martins.  Before those who were born in the 90′s pass judgement, I’ll have you know that everyone was wearing flannel and Doc Martins, even Liz Hurley.  I digress.  Ear cuffs have always in my mind, been associated with an edgy biker/goth/alternative/indie demographic–basically any demographic that would wear black lipstick without even the faintest whiff of irony.  Well, it behooves me to set the record straight.  A certain type of over the ear cuffs that were made popular in the 1950′s were extremely dainty and ladylike.

Enter the over the ear earring, over the ear cuff or as costume jewelry designer, Marcel Boucher named it in 1950, the Earrite.  I sometimes wonder whether this item of jewelry would have gained in popularity if it had a catchier name.  Earrites are earrings that are worn hooked over the ear and do not require any piercing.  I find it amazing that Boucher patented the Earrite in 1950–what a renaissance man.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

Marcel Boucher advertisement featuring the Earrite.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

Vintage Boucher rhinestone Earrite.

Earrites are sold individually and are meant to be worn alone, not as a pair.  Modern versions are a bit funkier–usually incorporating spikes, feathers and winged shapes.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

Estonian designer, Anni Jürgenson’s ear cuffs with rose gold spikes; available here.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and EarritesOASAP, leaves shaped single ear cuff; available here.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

ASOS, navette stone ear cuff; available here.

Mulling: Over the Ear Cuffs, Earrings and Earrites

Etro, rhodium-plated Swarovski crystal ear cuff; available here.

 I firmly love the vintage Boucher Earrites but I suspect modern versions may still be a touch outside the purview of my aesthetic.  I would, however, love to design a diamond-studded ear cuff inspired by Boucher’s Earrites.  Now that is something to mull over. . .

What are your thoughts?

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

layering necklaces

On Layering Necklaces

 

Do you ever watch Gossip Girl and wonder where they get all their amazing jewelry?  I do.  For those of you who think Gossip Girl is a mindless drama sitcom, it is–but it’s also a jewelry styling masterpiece.  Last week while I was recovering from my self-inflicted injury I took the time to analyze and pick apart Lilly and Serena’s jewelry ensembles and had two major revelations: 1) the jewelry on the show comes from the same places I purchase my costume jewelry–Net-a-porter, Bottica, Max & Chloe, BaubleBar and a scattering of smaller boutiques; and 2) all the necklaces seem intricate and unique but they are actually many necklaces layered together.  Layering necklaces is something of an art form.  When executed properly, it increases your jewelry options exponentially and gives the impression that you possess a treasure trove of goodies.

Lengths

For the layering novice, know there are 3 lengths you can work with: short, long and graduated from short to long.  Obviously for long and short layered looks choose necklaces of roughly the same length and for graduated lengths you will have to choose a selection of lengths ranging from short to long.

Contrasts

Simply piling a bunch of necklaces of the same color or texture together is a no brainer but it also makes for a rather dull arrangement.  In order to pack the most visual punch, make sure you have a contrast in color, texture of both.  The contrast is what makes, as Diana Vreeland put it, the eye travel–the importance of which is laid out in my post here.

On Layering Necklaces

Mink puff-ball necklace from Kopenhagen Fur, Givenchy Crystal Station Long Necklace, available here.

Start Simple

One thing I know for certain is that layering, and accessorizing in general, is a gateway drug.  One day you wake up and innocently stumble upon a simple jewelry combination that makes your little heart go pitter patter, the next you look for another and by the end of the month you look like a crazy bag lady.  So so I’ve been told. . .ahem.  So, start simple with two necklaces to play around and train your eye.  You’ll be building on that naturally so no need to rush.

On Layering Necklaces

Mink puff-ball necklace from Kopenhagen Fur; Givenchy Crystal Station Long Necklace, available here; and silver confetti necklace, similar one available here.

Experiment

Try playing around with different styles of necklaces to see which ones go together and which order of stacking is the most lovely.

On Layering Necklaces

Neon necklace, similar one here; Venus Flytrap necklace, available here; and starburst necklace, similar one here.  All from J.Crew.

Don’t Hold Back

Once you’ve got into a groove and you have a good thing going, don’t edit yourself.  I believe that eccentricity is awesome.  As long as you’re dressed appropriately, who cares if you’re a bit over-dressed or fabulously accessorized?  Nothing wrong with turning some heads as long as you are comfortable with the attention it comes with.

On Layering Necklaces

BaubleBar, White Crystal Mix necklace, available here; Vintage Lawrence Vrba Sultan necklace; Givenchy Crystal Station Long Necklace, available here; and silver confetti necklace, similar one available here.

Happy layering my DMD darlings!  Feel free to comment and include a picture of your favorite arrangements.  I would love to see!

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

Lanvin charm necklace

The Grown-Up Charm Necklace

 

What does one give to the best friend who has everything?  My bestie and I call each other oinkers, as in piglets.  I have no idea how this started, well actually I do but the story may not be fit for public consumption.  Suffice to say that when one of us would hog the champoo (a.k.a. champagne and we always hogged it from others, not each other), had trouble fitting into the minuscule clothing sizes that stores stock in Shanghai, or sign both of us up for a 10 course white truffle tasting menu at the “it” restaurant of the season, we were being oinkers and so it stuck.  I have often wondered what presents to get for my best piglet, she is notoriously picky, has everything and whatever she doesn’t have she makes a point of acquiring for herself tout de suite.

Jewelry is usually the perfect gift for a friend.  I generally know what suits my friends and they appreciate receiving little gifts from me because they know that thought has gone into it–after all, I am slightly obsessed.  In this case, I wanted a gift that was super personal that my bestie could participate in as well.  So I came up with the idea of the charm necklace.  Perhaps you thought you’ve outgrown them but the modern charm necklace is far from juvenile.  Whether it’s long or short, the grown up charm necklace packs quite an accessory punch if done right.  The idea is to collect charms for each other over a lifetime of birthdays, holidays and over the course of our travels.

I started out with a sterling silver long chain (approximately 24 inches) for me and a short chain (16 inches) for oinker bestie so that we don’t risk being too matchy-matchy.  From there, I scoured my vintage jewelry sources and found two identical sterling silver pigs that are quite sizable–about 2 inches by 1.5 inches.  The possibility of finding two identical vintage charms at completely different places is a feat only made possibly by modern technology (eBay).  I am planning on engraving my name on her pig’s bum and hers on my pig’s bum.  The engraving will be on the diagonal near the tail.  Adorable!

The Grown Up Charm Necklace

Antique sterling silver pig pendant/charm.

This first piglet is quite large and more of a pendant than a charm but in order to revamp charm necklaces for the modern-day, I would advise a good range of sizes, colors and textures.  This large pendant will ground the necklace and provide a focal point; once we add smaller additional charms there will be a lot of visual interest as a result.  Don’t feel that you have to stick to the same material either, throw in some enamel pieces or perhaps some gold letters for your initials.  The more eclectic the charms, the more interesting and personal it will feel.

For those who need a little proof inspiration, here are some pret-a-porter charm necklaces that are just darling and yet far from juvenile.

The Grown Up Charm Necklace

Lanvin, oversized Swarovski crystal charm necklace.  Available here.

The Grown Up Charm Necklace

Ben-Amun, toggle lariat charm necklace.  Available here.

The Grown Up Charm Necklace

Meira T, multi-charm necklace.  Available here.

Charm bracelets can be done as well.  However, for bracelets I would suggest collecting pendants rather than charms to make a really clunky charm bracelet.  Small charms on a bracelet will look dated, the best way to spruce it up is by using oversized charms for a funkier look.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP

cape

Calling the Cape

 

The first cape that I bought in adulthood was one that I found in Paris in 2004.  I was wandering around the 6th arrondissement with a girlfriend and stumbled upon a small gem of a boutique, the kind that one can only find in Paris–expertly curated and desperately chic without the faintest whiff of commerciality.  The cape was a navy wool number with brown leather trim by, Eley Kishimoto–infinitely wearable and flattering.  Needless to say, another obsession was born.  Capes have been back with a vengeance these past few years and with their revival comes a plethora of choices.  My two faves this season are from Junya Watanabe and Estaban Cortazar.

I prefer capes when worn with slim pants and a small statement jewelry; a pair of slim pants elongates the line of the outfit and with so much fabric around the neckline area you’ll want to steer clear of necklaces and opt for earrings or rings instead.  Don’t be fooled by the first photo, skirt+cape+motorcycle boots are very difficult to pull off in real life.  Cape and jewelry pairings:

Calling the Cape

Junya Watanabe, cotton trench cape, available here.  Photo from Net-a-porter.com

Calling the Cape

Hobe, vintage foxtail clips.  Similar earrings here.

Calling the Cape

Esteban Cortezar, Alican icoz 22k-plated double chain ring.  Available here.

Calling the Cape

Estaban Cortazar, wool and duchess satin cape back jacket, available here.  Photo from Net-a-porter.com

Calling the Cape

Joseph Mazer, vintage cluster clips.  Similar earrings available here.

Calling the Cape

Jennifer Fisher, brass prism ring.  Available here.

Big Kiss and Bigger Diamonds,

JZP